Thursday, February 13, 2014

Guayaquil Shopping and Street Scenes


FACTOIDS:

VEY IMPORTANT: EVERY HOTEL HAS A BUSINESS CARD- ALWAYS TAKE SEVERAL TO HAND TO CABBIES- VERY FEW PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH- IT WILL SAVE YOUR HIDE!
When you go out, do NOT flash anything expensive
Wear a money belt, or something to keep valuables safe
Use safe in the hotel
I like to keep money in two places- one hidden so that if mugged, the mugger will be satisfied and I will still have enough money to get home.  I never go out with a lot of cash
I advise taking two credit cards or one card and one debit card in case one is lost or is compromised
I strongly advise everyone take along a safari vest.  I keep harping on this and I know it is dorky but, used it this trip.  Some smaller planes will not allow for even a small carry on bag.  Some will have restrictive carry on weight restrictions.  I was forced to part with my camera gear.  Fortunately, everything of value fit into my vest. 
I always advise going out using the buddy system to keep an eye on each other.  Also, it is helpful if someone has an excellent sense of direction.
Speak with phone company and turn off “data roaming” so you don’t get hit with a huge bill for internet.  You will still get text messages and phone calls however.

Guayaquil is a very modern city by many standards.  It has several modern-looking malls, that would look like home were it not for the “strange looking” brand names and foreign language.  In general, things are much less expensive here in Ecuador; however, there are some very notable exceptions.  Electronics such as computers, phones, large appliances and durable goods are VERY expensive.  That large screen TV that costs $700 at COSTCO may cost $4000 in Ecuador.  Want to import your car?  Forget it.  Groceries are inexpensive, but unless you go to local “markets”, you really won’t save a lot of money.  You also won’t really get a feel for the fun of being in a foreign country or dickering on a price (if that is your cup of tea).  With that in mind, here are some market pics, and some other street scenes around Guayaquil.

Covered market that sold mainly dry goods and sundries.  Jewelry, clothes, handbags, and whatever you can imagine.  I purchased my “Panama Hat” at this market for $14 USD.  At the hotel, same hat, $60.00.  Be prepared to dicker, it is their way of life.  They see gringo, and they think $$$.  Unless you absolutely MUST have that particular item, be prepared to walk if they don’t come down to a price you are willing to pay.  Don’t worry however; chances are that you will find it or a better one in a stall nearby.


A stall with everything you ever needed, and stuff you never even knew about.  The craftsmanship is outstanding however.  It is hand-made



  Good stuff, and plain old junk.  You decide which is which. 



Fun fact:  It is illegal to import incandescent light bulbs.  Ecuador is going green!  Get used to fluorescent.






 
Street scenes. 

It seems that buildings are always being built, or being neglected. 







 

Close-up of window treatment and its neglect.  Shameful of the beautiful handicraft going to rust and decay.  Makes for beautiful photography however.







 
View of The Las Peñas district.  This hill was set up with cannons previously to defend the city against pirates.  Now the steps do a great job against middle-aged tourists with heavy camera gear. 






 More to follow very soon- internet is very spotty!


Friday, February 7, 2014

Guayaquil/Salinas Scam Alert!


FACTOIDS:

Real estate market is unregulated- be very careful.
A common scam is for realtor to tack $20K or more onto the price of a house price, give the buyer his asking price, and pocket the difference plus the 5% he charges.
NEVER EVER pay realtors for tours of the city- EVER!
Watch for vertically integrated schemes- realtor recommends friends and they all kick back to each other.
If you bring pets into the country, all paperwork needs to be done in advance.  This involves vet visits etc., months in advance.  Following the simple rules of immigration make it easy.  I will also post later some helpful factoids about this.  That said, PATRICIA SANCHEZ informed me that she provides a costly service of helping get pets through customs.  DO NOT PAY FOR THIS SERVICE- IT IS NOT A SERVICE, IT IS A WASTE OF YOUR MONEY, AND I WILL PROVIDE DETAILS LATER.



Unfortunately, when we travel abroad, or think of relocating abroad, we must place our trust in people.  Here is my experience with the following individuals.  You decide if you want to deal with them after reading this, however, you have the benefit of my experience.  Here are the individuals:

Hector G. Quintana, COO

EscapeArtist Ecuador

+001.786.220.4987 (Global)

098.522.9631 (Within Ecuador)

ecuador_hgq@escapeartist.com

http://Ecuador.EscapeArtist.com

 
 
 

Noelia Roldan
ZEN GLOBAL
Ecuador +593.99290.7522
Global +001.786.220.4987

Patricia Sanchez (CHEF)
Gourmet Cuisine
Servicio Personalizado
Urb Puerto Azul
MZ.ME Villa 6
Guayaquil Ecuador
Telephono: 2870-816
Cell: 094801727
Email: chefbanker@gmail.com



I first met Noelia through the expat web site Internations, which is excellent, but like the web, it is the wild west, so be careful.


Noelia was charming and responsive, but in short order, I was shunted off to her partner Hector.  Long story short: after weeks of planning, Hector took the lead and assured me that he is a professional, he understood my needs and would ensure that everything would be taken are of in Ecuador.

On arriving in Guayaquil Ecuador Hector’s promises fell apart.  The one good thing I must say is that he arranged for transportation from airport to hotel, which I did not request, but I greatly appreciate- thank you Hector.

On arriving to hotel, Hector called and said, “I have some bad news and some worse news”.  Basically, he and Noelia were “stuck in Quito”, but would have his friend, Patricia Sanchez, show me around the city instead, and we would meet up in Salinas as scheduled.

Patricia gave a long tour.  This included a very long walk along the malecon (walkway next to the Guayas River) that was completely deserted or vacant.  She took us on a tour to pick up her cell phone that she forgot outside of Guayaquil.  She took me on a tour of an expensive restaurant, and was all too happy to have me pay for her meal.  At the end, she told me it would be $30/hour X 8 hours as per Hector.   My policy is not to argue, as it could be a visit to a foreign jail.  Thank you for referring your good friend Hector.

Hector then arranged for cab fare with one of his preferred cabbie friends.  The trip to Salinas costs $10-15 USD more than if I had gotten a cab off the streets.  Again, thank you Hector.

Once in Salinas, neither Hector, nor Noeilia ever showed up.  I guess they are STILL in Quito.  They did try to call after 4 or 5 PM a day after we arrived, and we had already wasted more than a day on the coast- seeing no property.  Hector told me- “Don’t go to Cuenca because the transportation isn’t safe”.  I decided to brave it because I could not waste anymore precious time.  Guess what- it was not only a safe ride that is mad many times a day by hundreds of people, in many types of vehicles, it was a totally delightful ride with great scenery.  This was a flat out lie for obvious reasons.

Hector left us abandoned in a foreign country, and a different continent  in which I do not speak the language.  Few people here speak English.  He did not send anyone to take his place.  He lied.  He wasted my time and money.  He sent me on wild goose chases.  He “hooked” me up with his “amigos” who overcharged or charged for services that should be free.

Finally, while I was in Salinas with nothing to do (again, thank you so much Hector and Noelia), I spoke with several people.  When I mentioned Hector and Noelia, all seemed to either know them or know of them.  From what I heard, their reputation is in keeping with my experience.  Since what I heard is all second hand, I won’t repeat it, only what I know to be true.

Hector- I put a challenge out to you.  You wasted my time and wasted a lot of money.  Repay the money that you directly cost me. 

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Parque de las Iguanas (aka Parque Bolivar)



Parque de las Iguanas, aka Parque Bolivar

FACTOIDS:
I am behind in the writing and posting, understandably, however, I want to post important tips in real time even though they may not synch with the actual experience.
When getting into a cab, always try to get an English speaker- I mentioned this previously.  Get the price BEFORE entering cab.  They will whisk you bags in and it will be a hassle to get them out.  So be warned.  Get the price before you let them touch your bags.
In going from Salinas to Guayaquil a bus will cost about $14/person.  A cab ride ranges from $45- $60.
Be prepared- a cab ride can be a family affair.  Your cabbie may bring the wife and kid.  If that is fine with you, go for it.  If not, hail another cab.
Some cabs may only go to the outskirts of Salinas and then hand off to a second cab.  There definitely is a good old boy system here that I don’t understand, but it worked out for me.  I was en-route to Cuenca (Southern Sierra).  The second cabbie tried to take me to Cuenca and offered to do so for $200 USD, and came down to $120.  I declined, in favor of bus for $12.00 USD.
Here is where I got hustled.  On arrival to Guayaquil, I was handed off not to the terminal where I requested, but rather a strip mall with a bunch of private cab services to Cuenca- $14.00 USD each.  I went for it with the promise that there would only be 2 people total. Did I say three, or did I say 5?  Don’t believe it.
Final tip.  Though I have had no problems so far, I suggest that you consider a suit case lock or a Kensington type lock for bags containing all valuables.  Valuables= anything you don’t want stolen.  My valuables basically include my camera gear, and I take it with me at all times.  The rest I can replace.

Before I talk about the park, I do want to reiterate that I have had no problems, and this country so far is lovely.  The people are very friendly and eager to help. They are hospitable.

Of course documenting the trip is major goal of this blog.  Another major goal is to communicate the textures, sights, smells, and experiences, so that the reader, as much as possible cans a real connection through my writings and photos.  It is a tall order since I am not a writer, nor am I a professional photographer.  I do have a passion for both and a passion for meeting new people and learning about them.  If at any time you the reader want to learn more while I am here, please ask or leave comments, and I will do my best to find out.

The Parque is actually a treasure that most people don’t truly understand.  To begin with, the park has at least dozens of land iguanas.  Pardon me while I go zoologist/evolutionist on you.  In my opinion this is the treasure.  This may be the only, or if not the only, then one of only a handful of places in the world where land iguanas exist.  Interestingly, the park can get very crowded and the children and adults are more entertained by a solitary red squirrel that doesn’t fail to entertain.  This squirrel is notorious if not famous, as I read about him in a travel book.  Sadly, small children harassed him to the point that he took refuge up a tree before I could get his picture.

The iguana picture gets a bit interesting from a zoological point of view.  The question is, “how did they get there?”  The answer is…speculation.  My favorite theory is called the raft theory and goes like this.  The Galapagos Islands, has unique iguana species and lies about 600 miles to the west of Guayaquil. It is impossible for iguanas to swim this distance.  If one were to look at the Guayas River at any given time, one would be struck by the amount of bio-debris floating downstream.  It is entirely possible that viable eggs or a few iguanas could have hitched a ride on one of these rafts and survived the journey.  The rest is history.

One last thing on the topic of zoology, and hopefully you haven’t fallen asleep on your keyboards. It is important to understand what the definition of a species is.  The most basic and functional definition of species is that two individuals, no matter how much alike they look, and given that they are fertile, cannot breed together and produce a viable offspring.  Therefore, the land iguanas in Guayaquil according to evolutionary principles separated from the Galapagos iguanas many years ago, likely thousands of years ago, the environment acted on them “weeding out” the less and selecting the genetically superior specimens (natural selection by definition).  In the wild, the males tend to be larger and more colorful to attract the females, who in turn are attracted to the males whom they feel will have superior genetics to pass to the next generation.  Ahhh ain’t it great. 

Charles Darwin’s sailed to the Galapagos in his boat, the Beagle.  He was so struck by the biodiversity that it was a backbone of his famous book “On The Origin Of Species’, published November 24, 1859”.  Actually, his book never explained it.

The Park was AWESOME, and well worth spending a couple of hours or more if you are amused and entertained by large pre-historic appearing critters that are docile.  The square is immaculate, and safe.  Many guards are present and visible.  Families and people of all ages are present and enjoying themselves.  The children were fascinated by my silver hair, and camera, but mainly my camera.  The children loved to have their pics taken. 

Let the pics however will speak for themselves:

Officer showing baby iguana.  Many are pilfered.  Some have died recently due to visitors feeding them "bad" things.  

baby iguana, waiting to play with the big boys


Local children, always eager to pose.  Also, very beautiful!



And now, iguanas, the stars of the show!


female left, male right
proud, handsome, male- Note that each iguana has beautiful and individual colors and markings.


The next photos are admittedly very POOR pics.  I wouldn't usually show them, however, I was extremely lucky to witness this, let alone get any pic at all. I was not set up for an action shot, no excuses.  So here is what happened.  The iguana decided to actually walk (really run) on water using just his hind legs.  It was amazing.

On your mark






GO!

 Avid tree climbers
Avid tree climbers

Literally hundreds of iguanas.  A word to the wise, do not stand directly beneath them.  Enough said.


They are docile and sweet

Some will even hand feed


Interestingly, the "famous red squirrel" was present at east the end of the square opposite the church, and had a huge crowd of kids and adults.  The squirrel evidently was used to being hand fed as it was comfortable with people.  The crowds preferred the squirrel to the iguanas, obviously not knowing what a unique treasure they have.

The iguanas were wonderful critters and would make a great "pet" for those inclined.  For me, they belong in the wild.  A great experience to be up close and personal with a reptile that hasn't changed much since pre-historic days.  I was also totally shocked at how fast and agile they are considering they are cold blooded animals, but that is another didactic lecture, and I have waxed boring already.

Two other points of interest that I photographed:

Statue of Simon Bolivar with cathedral in background.  For extra points, does anyone know the meaning of the positioning of the horses hooves?  Does one up = wounded, two up= killed in action?  Does it mean anything at all?  is it a local custom?


Inside the cathedral.  This was a long exposure photograph taken on tripod.  The cathedral was originally build in 1500's  (the best that I can tell), and reconstructed in 1936 after being destroyed by a fire.  It is beautiful, and Neo-Gothic in design and dominates the west end of the park.

More on Guayaquil on next post, so keep an eye out!
*if you discover any errors, or would like to suggest anything to be covered, please indicate in comments.



Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Parque Historico Guayaquil

 FACTOIDS;
*Remember that Ecuador is a third world country.  Do not expect them to do things the way you are used to, and you will not get frustrated.
*It is best to drink water from bottles wherever possible.
*Diarrhea may occur.  Go to your doctor at home and be sure to get Cipro or other drug for treatment of diarrhea.  Pepto or other anti-diarrhea may help.  If you suffer from other problems down below, creams like Preparation-H is advised.

This park was about a 10-minute walk from the hotel, located in a residential area near Guayaquil.  Across the street was a theater, and down the street was an upscale mall. The park is a preserved natural area that by my estimate is about 60 acres. It is walled in (about 15 foot high stone or brick fence with barbed wire) on three sides, and on the fourth side, it communicates with the Guayas River, so its natural ecosystem is preserved.  Interestingly, I have three travel guides, and this little gem is listed in none of them, and the park itself is more substantial than some of the ones covered.  It is definitely worth a visit.  It is free, safe, and the children were well behaved.


The park has areas for interactive exhibits and demonstrations, but no touching.  There is a refreshment area to buy authentic Ecuadorian fast food.  The park consists of natural areas where many animals can be viewed up close and personal by way of boardwalks and paths, and areas that depict Guayaquil throughout its history, replete with costumes.  The historical areas consist of HUGE buildings, churches, courtyards, gardens, and the like.  It is simply amazing and beautiful.  Take plenty of bug spray, SPF >= 50, and large brimmed hats.  Panama hats are great, or look at Sundayafternoons.com.

Here are some pics of the park:
 
 
 
 
Right: Tapir
Below:Oscelot resting on tree
Below right: Flamingo



 Plants:
 

 
 
Birds:







 
Peccaries:

 
 
 
Fox:

 
 
 
 
Oscelot:

 
 
Monkey:
 
 
 
Sloth (Peccaries in background):
 
 
 Park Scenes: