Showing posts with label Guayaquil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guayaquil. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Guayaquil Hostal, Final Days and Thoughts.


Guayaquil final days.

Guayaquil was a sultry place to be sure.  It was a city of over 3 million people. It was busy, sultry, dirty, and at the same time beautiful.  It is the gateway to the Galapagos Islands.  By far, my favorite place was the Parque de las Iguanas.  On the whole, I think that Guayaquil was well worth the visit, however I don't wish to ever return.  I never really felt safe in Guayaquil.  Perhaps I was pre-biased based the research I did before the trip.

FACTOIDS

Hostals are small non-traditional hotels.  They are not chains and frequently family owned, and sometimes are actually in peoples homes.  A hostal may consist of a room in a home or a house or small hotel converted to serve perhaps 20 guests or more.  Hostals frequently include a free breakfast and offer an "off the beaten path" way to experience the country and meet natives and ex-pats from all over the world.  If you ask around and do your homework, you can find very nice places to stay in nice and safe neighborhoods with ample opportunity to interact with very interesting people.  An added plus to staying hostals is that they are usually much less expensive than hotel chains.  I highly recommend them.

                                                   


Hostal Macau business card




Hostal business card (back) with map




                                                       

Hostal view from the front




Welcoming front door


Pleasant stairway to upstairs rooms                      


Bright and cheerful hall.  Murals painted by local talent


Hallway art


Small sitting area, and stairs to third floor.


Yet more hallway art.  A skylight above aids in lighting.


Spartan but clean room (twin beds)


Small table with small TV- My room was much larger with larger tv and more dressers, etc.  Still, safe and very comfortable, clean and quiet.


Very simple bathroom.


Simple shower.


A/C unit  next to window- quiet and very effective.  Very nice after being in the heat and humidity.


View of street and courtyard from second floor.



This hostal was very nice, and if you haven't ever tried one, I highly recommend it.  You have to be up for an adventure.  You won't find room service and all of the "extras", but it is fun, cozy, and gets you close to the "pulse" of the people.

Next up...Salinas Ecuador, and the coast.


































Thursday, February 13, 2014

Guayaquil Shopping and Street Scenes


FACTOIDS:

VEY IMPORTANT: EVERY HOTEL HAS A BUSINESS CARD- ALWAYS TAKE SEVERAL TO HAND TO CABBIES- VERY FEW PEOPLE SPEAK ENGLISH- IT WILL SAVE YOUR HIDE!
When you go out, do NOT flash anything expensive
Wear a money belt, or something to keep valuables safe
Use safe in the hotel
I like to keep money in two places- one hidden so that if mugged, the mugger will be satisfied and I will still have enough money to get home.  I never go out with a lot of cash
I advise taking two credit cards or one card and one debit card in case one is lost or is compromised
I strongly advise everyone take along a safari vest.  I keep harping on this and I know it is dorky but, used it this trip.  Some smaller planes will not allow for even a small carry on bag.  Some will have restrictive carry on weight restrictions.  I was forced to part with my camera gear.  Fortunately, everything of value fit into my vest. 
I always advise going out using the buddy system to keep an eye on each other.  Also, it is helpful if someone has an excellent sense of direction.
Speak with phone company and turn off “data roaming” so you don’t get hit with a huge bill for internet.  You will still get text messages and phone calls however.

Guayaquil is a very modern city by many standards.  It has several modern-looking malls, that would look like home were it not for the “strange looking” brand names and foreign language.  In general, things are much less expensive here in Ecuador; however, there are some very notable exceptions.  Electronics such as computers, phones, large appliances and durable goods are VERY expensive.  That large screen TV that costs $700 at COSTCO may cost $4000 in Ecuador.  Want to import your car?  Forget it.  Groceries are inexpensive, but unless you go to local “markets”, you really won’t save a lot of money.  You also won’t really get a feel for the fun of being in a foreign country or dickering on a price (if that is your cup of tea).  With that in mind, here are some market pics, and some other street scenes around Guayaquil.

Covered market that sold mainly dry goods and sundries.  Jewelry, clothes, handbags, and whatever you can imagine.  I purchased my “Panama Hat” at this market for $14 USD.  At the hotel, same hat, $60.00.  Be prepared to dicker, it is their way of life.  They see gringo, and they think $$$.  Unless you absolutely MUST have that particular item, be prepared to walk if they don’t come down to a price you are willing to pay.  Don’t worry however; chances are that you will find it or a better one in a stall nearby.


A stall with everything you ever needed, and stuff you never even knew about.  The craftsmanship is outstanding however.  It is hand-made



  Good stuff, and plain old junk.  You decide which is which. 



Fun fact:  It is illegal to import incandescent light bulbs.  Ecuador is going green!  Get used to fluorescent.






 
Street scenes. 

It seems that buildings are always being built, or being neglected. 







 

Close-up of window treatment and its neglect.  Shameful of the beautiful handicraft going to rust and decay.  Makes for beautiful photography however.







 
View of The Las Peñas district.  This hill was set up with cannons previously to defend the city against pirates.  Now the steps do a great job against middle-aged tourists with heavy camera gear. 






 More to follow very soon- internet is very spotty!


Thursday, February 6, 2014

Parque de las Iguanas (aka Parque Bolivar)



Parque de las Iguanas, aka Parque Bolivar

FACTOIDS:
I am behind in the writing and posting, understandably, however, I want to post important tips in real time even though they may not synch with the actual experience.
When getting into a cab, always try to get an English speaker- I mentioned this previously.  Get the price BEFORE entering cab.  They will whisk you bags in and it will be a hassle to get them out.  So be warned.  Get the price before you let them touch your bags.
In going from Salinas to Guayaquil a bus will cost about $14/person.  A cab ride ranges from $45- $60.
Be prepared- a cab ride can be a family affair.  Your cabbie may bring the wife and kid.  If that is fine with you, go for it.  If not, hail another cab.
Some cabs may only go to the outskirts of Salinas and then hand off to a second cab.  There definitely is a good old boy system here that I don’t understand, but it worked out for me.  I was en-route to Cuenca (Southern Sierra).  The second cabbie tried to take me to Cuenca and offered to do so for $200 USD, and came down to $120.  I declined, in favor of bus for $12.00 USD.
Here is where I got hustled.  On arrival to Guayaquil, I was handed off not to the terminal where I requested, but rather a strip mall with a bunch of private cab services to Cuenca- $14.00 USD each.  I went for it with the promise that there would only be 2 people total. Did I say three, or did I say 5?  Don’t believe it.
Final tip.  Though I have had no problems so far, I suggest that you consider a suit case lock or a Kensington type lock for bags containing all valuables.  Valuables= anything you don’t want stolen.  My valuables basically include my camera gear, and I take it with me at all times.  The rest I can replace.

Before I talk about the park, I do want to reiterate that I have had no problems, and this country so far is lovely.  The people are very friendly and eager to help. They are hospitable.

Of course documenting the trip is major goal of this blog.  Another major goal is to communicate the textures, sights, smells, and experiences, so that the reader, as much as possible cans a real connection through my writings and photos.  It is a tall order since I am not a writer, nor am I a professional photographer.  I do have a passion for both and a passion for meeting new people and learning about them.  If at any time you the reader want to learn more while I am here, please ask or leave comments, and I will do my best to find out.

The Parque is actually a treasure that most people don’t truly understand.  To begin with, the park has at least dozens of land iguanas.  Pardon me while I go zoologist/evolutionist on you.  In my opinion this is the treasure.  This may be the only, or if not the only, then one of only a handful of places in the world where land iguanas exist.  Interestingly, the park can get very crowded and the children and adults are more entertained by a solitary red squirrel that doesn’t fail to entertain.  This squirrel is notorious if not famous, as I read about him in a travel book.  Sadly, small children harassed him to the point that he took refuge up a tree before I could get his picture.

The iguana picture gets a bit interesting from a zoological point of view.  The question is, “how did they get there?”  The answer is…speculation.  My favorite theory is called the raft theory and goes like this.  The Galapagos Islands, has unique iguana species and lies about 600 miles to the west of Guayaquil. It is impossible for iguanas to swim this distance.  If one were to look at the Guayas River at any given time, one would be struck by the amount of bio-debris floating downstream.  It is entirely possible that viable eggs or a few iguanas could have hitched a ride on one of these rafts and survived the journey.  The rest is history.

One last thing on the topic of zoology, and hopefully you haven’t fallen asleep on your keyboards. It is important to understand what the definition of a species is.  The most basic and functional definition of species is that two individuals, no matter how much alike they look, and given that they are fertile, cannot breed together and produce a viable offspring.  Therefore, the land iguanas in Guayaquil according to evolutionary principles separated from the Galapagos iguanas many years ago, likely thousands of years ago, the environment acted on them “weeding out” the less and selecting the genetically superior specimens (natural selection by definition).  In the wild, the males tend to be larger and more colorful to attract the females, who in turn are attracted to the males whom they feel will have superior genetics to pass to the next generation.  Ahhh ain’t it great. 

Charles Darwin’s sailed to the Galapagos in his boat, the Beagle.  He was so struck by the biodiversity that it was a backbone of his famous book “On The Origin Of Species’, published November 24, 1859”.  Actually, his book never explained it.

The Park was AWESOME, and well worth spending a couple of hours or more if you are amused and entertained by large pre-historic appearing critters that are docile.  The square is immaculate, and safe.  Many guards are present and visible.  Families and people of all ages are present and enjoying themselves.  The children were fascinated by my silver hair, and camera, but mainly my camera.  The children loved to have their pics taken. 

Let the pics however will speak for themselves:

Officer showing baby iguana.  Many are pilfered.  Some have died recently due to visitors feeding them "bad" things.  

baby iguana, waiting to play with the big boys


Local children, always eager to pose.  Also, very beautiful!



And now, iguanas, the stars of the show!


female left, male right
proud, handsome, male- Note that each iguana has beautiful and individual colors and markings.


The next photos are admittedly very POOR pics.  I wouldn't usually show them, however, I was extremely lucky to witness this, let alone get any pic at all. I was not set up for an action shot, no excuses.  So here is what happened.  The iguana decided to actually walk (really run) on water using just his hind legs.  It was amazing.

On your mark






GO!

 Avid tree climbers
Avid tree climbers

Literally hundreds of iguanas.  A word to the wise, do not stand directly beneath them.  Enough said.


They are docile and sweet

Some will even hand feed


Interestingly, the "famous red squirrel" was present at east the end of the square opposite the church, and had a huge crowd of kids and adults.  The squirrel evidently was used to being hand fed as it was comfortable with people.  The crowds preferred the squirrel to the iguanas, obviously not knowing what a unique treasure they have.

The iguanas were wonderful critters and would make a great "pet" for those inclined.  For me, they belong in the wild.  A great experience to be up close and personal with a reptile that hasn't changed much since pre-historic days.  I was also totally shocked at how fast and agile they are considering they are cold blooded animals, but that is another didactic lecture, and I have waxed boring already.

Two other points of interest that I photographed:

Statue of Simon Bolivar with cathedral in background.  For extra points, does anyone know the meaning of the positioning of the horses hooves?  Does one up = wounded, two up= killed in action?  Does it mean anything at all?  is it a local custom?


Inside the cathedral.  This was a long exposure photograph taken on tripod.  The cathedral was originally build in 1500's  (the best that I can tell), and reconstructed in 1936 after being destroyed by a fire.  It is beautiful, and Neo-Gothic in design and dominates the west end of the park.

More on Guayaquil on next post, so keep an eye out!
*if you discover any errors, or would like to suggest anything to be covered, please indicate in comments.



Thursday, January 23, 2014

First Stop: Guayaquil


First Stop: Guayaquil

My flight arrives in Guayaquil by way of Miami after a 9 hour total trip.  There will be an hour and a half layover in Miami.
I have reserved my hotel   Boutique Hotel Orilla del Rio  Click link and see the hotel, read the interesting history on this former home!
Facts and demographics about Guayaquil. 

Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador with a populataion of over 2.3 million.  It is also the largest South American port city located on The Pacific for both freight and cruises.  Guayaquil has been called “dirty and dangerous”, but now is rising up to be quite a tourist destination in its own right, and  is now the commercial heart of the country.  Over half of Ecuador's companies are based here. 
From everything I have researched, this is still a crime ridden city.  Every reference warns of muggings, car jackings, and even violent crimes.  Sources consistently warn tourists to take only marked cabs, not to  wander aimlessly, even during the day, and to stay on main streets in the middle.  Sounds scary.  Hint taken.
Unlike central Ecuador, which enjoys springlike climates in The Andes, Guayaquil is hot and humid.  It is located on the western banks of the Rio Daule and the Rio Babahoyo.  January to April are the hottest months (90’s to 100 d F) with high humidity, and lots of rain.  The dry and cool months are June to December when tends to be  overcast as well. For the most part, the city is only a few meters above sea level, so in the rainy season, flooding is very common.

The city proper has about a dozen high rise buildings, and on the hillsides, it has barrios.  Although crime can be (er, is?) a problem, the city is reportedly safe in the refurbished areas located in the city center and Malecon 2000 (promenade along the water front) along the Rio Guayas.
Guayaquil is  building a burgeoning cultural center in.  An Imax theater is here. There are many theaters, museums, arts venues, parks, squares, and lively bars are here.  A number of universities fuel academic interests, and a youthful curiosity.  Virtually all flights to or from the Gallapagos either originate or stop here.
There are many interesting things to see and do in Guayaquil that make it worth a visit for at least a few days.  What I plan to see for sure is the Parque Bolivar or Parque  de las Iguanas. This park may be the only place in the world  where inland iguanas are found.  These iguanas certainly are a species unique from those found in the Galapagos, which is owned by Ecuador.
Sites on my agenda at this time, subject to change: 
Malecon 2000
This is the pride and joy and symbol of redevelopment of the city.  It is a promenade by the Guayas river spanning 3 km.  Along the walk, many attractions abound- sculptures, museums, gardens, etc.  Many security guards are present supposedly, making this a "safe" and relaxing place.  I will report on this shortly.
Parque de las Iguanas, aka Parque Bolivar
Located in Guayaquil’s city center is a park with dozens of iguanas measuring up to about a meter in length.  Reportedly they are tame and spend their time between the trees and the ground thermoregulating.  Reportedly, there is a red squirrel that is entertaining to visitors and tourists (though I can’t determine why), and a fish pond that contains turtles as well as fish.  I will find out what is going on here.  You can bet that I will get to the bottom of it and give you the skinny.  Pics to follow.

I visited Costa Rica in the late 1990’s when I went on an "adventure" vacation/tour.  I didn't know what that meant at the time, but being older, and hopefully wiser, I think it means doing bone headed things that risk life and limb.  Anyway, I saw iguanas living in trees.  Locals called them “tree chickens”.  The reason the critters had this moniker was because they lived in the trees, and they tasted, well, like everything else, like chicken.  Anyway, after that, I double checked the meat content of all meals.  Will do same in Ecuador.
Las Penas and Cerro Santa Ana.  This is the arts district, bars and restaurants.  I plan to check out this vibrant scene. I will give you a full report on the food, beverage, and art scene, well, at least the first two, and maybe some art.

After Guayaquil, I head to Salinas on the coast for a few days, and will look forward to an exciting trip to "The Poor Man's Galapagos"
More to follow.
References:
Moon Handbooks
Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands
Ben Westwood